Gion's Hassaku "Uniform": 祇園の八朔の正装

Kosen emerges from a narrow, covered alleyway as she returns to her okiya.


Kotoha and Yasuha headed back to their okiya after a long morning of visits beneath the brutal summer sun.


Kosen and Koyuki slip through a noren, carefully stepping into the street with her black laquered okobo. Kosen wears the typical susuki kanzashi ( Japanese Pampas Grass hair ornament).

While many maiko wear kanzashi (hair ornaments) based on summer grasses, Mameteru wears a rare asagao, or Morning Glory, perfectly complimenting the flowery theme of her kimono.


Teruyuki also wears the asagao, but as a senior maiko her hair is ornamented with only a single, large blossom.

Kotoha wears another rare kanzashi.

Mameteru lifts a festive noren as she leaves a teahouse.

Because it is a very formal occasion, maiko leave three tapered prongs of skin bare on their painted white necks, as opposed to the usual two. This is called sanbonashi, or "three legs". Lower ranking maiko wear their hair in the wareshinobu style, characterized by the mage, or top knot, woven through with a peice of silk and topped with a special ornament called a kanko dome.

Senior maiko wear the Yakko Shimada hairstyle.

The difference is easily observable, as seen above.

The shimmering silver kanzsahi sparkle in the sunlight.

Hanagasa Gyoretsu: Pontocho

The maiko Hisano looks calm and composed before joining the geiko of Pontocho in offering a dance to the dieties of Yasaka Shrine.

With a rare view of their own hair pulled back in a sleek, simple pony tale, the geiko of Pontocho ride through Kyoto in a flowered float during the Hanagasa Kyoretsu, the Procession of Flowered Hats.

Dressed as miko, or shrine maidens, Hisano performs "Kabuki Odori" with her fellow geiko.

Kyoto: Where My Heart Belongs

Almost Famous: Kotoha, A young, high rank maiko named Kotoha makes her to the big party at the Ichiriki teahouse after the main procession of Yamahoko Junko last July.

I'm headed to Kyoto for Jidai Matsuri: The Festival of Ages. I haven't been to Kyoto since July(way too long) but here are some of the photos I took during the summer and never got around to sharing. Enjoy!

A young, first year maiko on her way to an appointment during Gion Matsuri. Geiko still use traditional, oiled paper umbrella in the rain and snow. This was my first time actually seeing a maiko or geiko use one. Breath-taking. This is also the first image taken with my new camera (^-^)/ I'm still learning how to use it. Non-stop pouring rain ＋ fast moving maiko = a great learning experience! The blur helps conveys the hustle and bustle of the crowded street, the young maiko rushing through the crowd to her appointment, and the dreary, dripping rain. It looks ethereal, like a scene from a dream, which is exactly the way I felt when I shot it.

Eyes Wide Closed: Gion. A geiko making her daily communte through the streets of Gion. Geiko wear wigs called katsura, with almost no ornamentation (compared to maiko, who style their own hair, which is adorned with many kanzashi, or flowered ornaments). Of course she blinked the exact moment I pressed the shutter, but what a perfect face.

A young geiko waiting outside the Ichiriki Teahouse in Gion with her client. Customers pay about $200 dollars an hour for the privledge of spending time with geiko (kyoto dialect for geisha), but having money is not the only requirement. Customers must have a relationship with an ochaya, a place where geiko entertain, in order to make an appointment, and being introduced to an ochaya is no simple task. The refined manners of Kyoto dictate that charging a customer at the end of the night is a no-no. With bills often running past 5,000$ a night, Ochaya must have a relationship based on trust, so that they can rest assured that the bills that they send to their customers once a month will be paid.

Two maiko make their way through the busy streets of Gion, sheltered from the sweltering summer sun by their umbrellas. Daytime casual: No white makeup, no heavy silk kimono. Just cotton yukata and lip gloss (^-^). I've never seen a maiko with a western umbrella before (right). Interesting. Also love the way the two older women watched them pass with awe, reverence and pride.

It is a Japanese custom for women to cover their mouths when smiling,laughing, and even sometimes, speaking.　This young maiko was laughing as she talked with her friend, which is as she talked with her friend, which is why her hand is raised just so.

An older "sister", an accomplished and high ranking geiko, accompanying a few younger maiko, or apprentice geisha, to a tea ceremony held at the famous Ichiriki Teahouse. The way the older women on the right hold themselves, and the sensual way they touch themselves, even in such a casual way....

Yoiyama Kyomai : Gion Matsuri

Geiko from Gion glide gracefully across the stage with their shamisens, as the long trains of their kimonos flutter behind them.

The Geiko took their place on the side of the stage, sitting seiza style, on their knees, and played as 3 maiko danced in the traditional Kyoto style. The maiko in the purple Kimono is Suzuha, who if I am not mistaken, recently appeared on the cover of the Japanese Playboy magazine! She is renowned for her classic beauty among many of Gion's customers.

Kotoha, a high ranking maiko (in green) and superb dancer, performed the lead role in the short performance. The young maiko behind her is only in her first year. Her upper lip is not yet painted, and her collar is still predominantly red.


The extravagance of the flowing layers of colorful silk kimono, the breath-taking contrast of the porcelian-white makeup and delicately painted red lips, and the grace and dignity of the dance set to the haunting music of the shamisen create a scene of ethereal beauty beyond description.

As their dance ends, the maiko bow low to their audience. The maiko wear a very special hairstyle during the month of July specifically for Gion Matsuri.

Gion Matsuri: Yamahoko Junko 2006

A young man, dressed in his area`s yukata, seeking shelter from the relentless rain that threatened to dampen the festive atmosphere of Gion Matsuri`s most anticipated event: the procession of the gigantic yama and hoko floats. The umbrellaless men behind him wait patiently for their cue to continue pulling their float through the streets. The heavy rain kept spectators to a minimum this year, with only 130,000, almost half last year's record-high of 240,000 people.

Is it still raining? You better your yukata it is!

Maiko make their ways through the soggy streets of Gion beneath their beautiful oiled-paper umbrellas.

A Summer Stroll in Ponto Cho

Hisano, a beautiful young maiko from Ponto-cho in her casual daytime yukata, sheilded from the scolding summer sun by a Japanese paper umbrella.


Hisano strolls along the narrow alley known as Pontocho, the second largest traditional entertainment district in Kyoto, after Gion. Running 500 meters (0.3 miles), it is bordered on the east by the Kamo river and the Takase-gawa canal to the west.


A clear sign the summer has come. More than 80 of Pontocho's restaurants, bars, and other establishments set up wooden balconies on stilts over the canal on the west bank of the Kamo River, between Nijo Street and Gojo Street.


The famous Kamo River has been the backdrop of the Geisha and Maiko of Kyoto since the mid 17th century, when the first tea houses of Gion and Pontocho sprang up. Summer is the perfect chance to enjoy dinner by the cool, clear waters of the Kamagawa.


The mountains fade into blue as your eye follows the path of the river downstream, until its hard tell where the mountains end and the clouds begin


Pontocho's mon (crest) adorns the bright red lanterns that line the narrow alleyway, bringing a soft glow to magical evenings among the old buildings, illuminating ephemeral glimpses of geiko and maiko as they disappear into the night. The chidori is a small bird known as a plover, often spotted along the banks of the Kamogawa.

Lindsey's Farewell Fireworks: Osaka Style

Right about now Lindz is somewhere over Asia, on her way to the tropical paradise that is Thailand. I should be sitting next to her on the plane, reading a lonely planet guide to my Thai adventure or struggling with Thai expressions like, "Spicy, please!" but thanks to my Board of Evil (aKa Education), I am stuck in Ena, with nothing to do but blog about our fantastic farewell weekend in Osaka



Saturday was Lindz last day at Nova, so while she struggled to get thru it I spent a rough afternoon shopping in Namba! Her farewell party was at Ninikuya (the Garlic Shop), a beautiful resturant with an eclectic menu featuring a delicous array of dishes dashed with garlic. The bathrooms are fully equipped with toothbrushes and toothpaste for all those foul breath faux paus that such a selection is destined to cause, but it was delicous! The best part about it all was that Mitsu was able to come too, and since he's on his way to Tampa Bay, Florida, for the next year, it was the last time we'd all get to party together. Even though he kept stealing my food, it was great to see him again!



After dinner we peer pressured him to join us for Karaoke, a staple of party culture in Japan. Of course he couldn't resist the chance to hear our beautiful voices so he trekked back to Shin-Osaka with us. Highlights of the jam session included his rendition of Rakuen Baby (listen to it here: track #5) by Ripslyme and Mr.Big's I'm the One Who Wants to be With You, a cross cultural favorite! I got some pretty entertaining video of it all, if I ever figure out how to upload it...

After everyone else went to sleep we decided to watch The Beach, in honor of Lindz encroaching departure. We didnt pass out til after 6 AM! Unfortunately, I had a reservation in kyoto at 3, so we had to be up a ready to go by noon. But that's for another post!



Lindz' friend Yukiyo had invited us to the PL (Perfect Liberty, a new religion in Japan) fireworks display in Tondabayashi, PL`s Holy Land. Its the largest display in the world, with over 120,000 fireworks! We headed to Yukiyo`s, where her mother and 6th grade sister struggled to dress all three of us in Yukata in time to brave the crowded trains and streets early enough to secure a good seat, which we did, 3 hours before the show began. As we walked around the crowded lot admiring yukatas, I found a few admirers myself. A Japanese man yelled out "Kawaii!" a few times before braving a "Hello!" to get my attention. "Mecha Kawaii! (Super cute)," he assured me, smiling. "Niateru! (It suits you!)." As we headed back to our seats (a plastic bag stretched out on the hot concrete of the Holy PL Parking Lot, a Peruvian man walked up to me, looked me up and down and said "Hola guapa!" Hmm...Maybe I should wear yukata more often!



The fireworks were well worth the the wait! Its been a long time since I saw fireworks, but these were amazing. They were sending hundreds up at a time, for over and hour!

PL is the world's largest yearly display of fireworks, with over 120,000 fire flowers blooming in the stars (a typical fireworks festival will launch between 5,000 to 10,000). Highlights include "Niagara Falls", a 50 meter high, one kilometer long river of falling fire (pictured left). The grand finale, a firestorm of more than 7,000 fireworks launched at once, transforms the night sky into a burst of light, if only for a moment.

The music was kind of creepy- new age PL style- and probably loaded with subliminal messages to join the dark side, but we survived unconverted.

The finale was incredible. The sky lit up like it was broad daylight, and the sound rattled the ground beneath me and caused my heart to skip a beat. It was terrifying and breath-taking. I got video of that, too!

We ended the night at a sentou, or pubic bath/onsen, where we soaked the marathons of walking we had done over the weekend away.I passed out staring at a huge poster of Johnny Depp playing the piano hanging on Yukiyo's ceiling. It was after 2 AM (I had to be up by 4:30 to begin my trek back to Ena), but it was the perfect end to an amazing weekend!

Sayonara Lindsey-san! I'll miss you!

Gion Matsuri : Yoiyama Kyomai

祇園祭り：よい山の京舞

Mihoko (left), recently graduated from senior ranking maiko to full-fledge Geiko, performs Kyomai for the Yoiyama festivities with the maiko Ichimiyo. Their uchiwa, (Japanese fans) are decorated with their name, and the districts of Gion that they represent. When Geiko or maiko entertain during Gion Matsuri, they give their patrons one of these fans as a keepsake.

Last time I saw Mihoko, she was dancing as an apprentice in the Miyako Odori. She looks so much more refined and elegant as a Geiko!

Kyomai, or Kyoto Style Dance, developed in western Japan under the influence of Noh theatre. Unlike other odori, or kabuki styled dances developed in Edo, Kyomai is performed in Washitsu, Japanese style tatami mat rooms, where its subtle movements, the embodiment of the elegance and sophistication of the imperial court, can be viewed at close range .

Kyomai is not meant to be performed on stage, but in the intimacy of Japanese rooms .

Gion's entertainers practice the Inoue school of Kyomai. This style of dance is very different from that performed in Kyoto's other entertainment districts

The Inoue school is characterized by minimal motions based on the masked drama of Noh and the puppetry of Bunraku.

Even in this picture, if you compare the gesture of the hands between the Mihoko (Geisha) and Ichimiyo (maiko), the difference in mastery of these simple movements is clear.

Geiko present themselves in a much more subdued fashion because they do not need the bright colors and flashy ornamentation to compensate for their lack of skill.

Kyomai symbolizes the gracefulness and lifestyle of the imperial family.

This is the fruit of my Japanese language labour...I was able to read the kanji foretelling the appearance of Geiko and Maiko performing Kyomai, as well as the names written on their uchiwa! Obsessed as I am, this gave me a great sense of accomplishment and furthur motivated me to press on! Who knows what gems of information are hidden in the kanji that clutter this country (besides the people that can read them)? Let's fighting ganbaro!

Stay tuned...more Matsuri Maiko pix to come...

Check out Justin Klien's Gion Matsuri Video to get a better idea of what this festival is all about!