Showing posts with label gion matsuri. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gion matsuri. Show all posts

Saturday, August 18, 2007

Hanagasa Gyoretsu: Pontocho

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The maiko Hisano looks calm and composed before joining the geiko of Pontocho in offering a dance to the dieties of Yasaka Shrine.

With a rare view of their own hair pulled back in a sleek, simple pony tale, the geiko of Pontocho ride through Kyoto in a flowered float during the Hanagasa Kyoretsu, the Procession of Flowered Hats.

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Dressed as miko, or shrine maidens, Hisano performs "Kabuki Odori" with her fellow geiko.

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Thursday, July 19, 2007

Celestial Child: Gion Matsuri

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Each year, a young boy is chosen from among Kyoto's wealthiest merchant families to act as a sacred page, an intercessor between the gods and the priests presiding over one of Japan`s most famous festivals: Kyoto's Gion Matsuri. At the culmination of the month long event, the Chigo, or "celestial child", rides in the Naginata Hoko, the first float in a long procession of 32, dressed in ceremonial Shinto robes. In order for the procession to begin, the boy must cut through a "shimenawa" , or sacred rope, with a single stoke of a sword.

Here he leads a procession of omikoshi, or portable shrines, through the streets of Gion on horseback. As a god, he is not permitted to touch the ground. He is carried inside the teahouses to give his blessing.

Behind him, Japan's most famous teahouse, the Ichiriki.

Gion Matsuri is a traditional festival which has been held at Yasaka Shrine for over 1,100 years. The festival was first held in 869, when a plague swept the country. People believed it was a curse of the diety Gozu Tenno. Sixty-six pikes representing the provinces at that time were erected at Shinsen-en Garden. The gods of Gion were celebrated and portable shrines were paraded through the streets as the people prayed for an abatement of the pestilence. Then known as Gion Goryo, the festival actually began as a ceremonial rite for the dead killed by the plagues.

Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Meet Ichimame

Ichimame enjoying the plum blossoms of Kitano Tenmangu shrine, in full bloom just in time for the Plum Festival (Baikasai) thanks to the unusually warm weather.

If you are a geisha enthusiast like myself, chances are you already know Ichimame, the beautiful young maiko blogging away from her okiya in Kamishichiken, Kyoto's oldest and most traditional hanamachi (literally 'flower town', where geisha live and entertain). I first saw Ichimame perform last spring, when a wonderful series of unforeseeable events resulted in a free front row seat to Kitano Odori (the spring dance of Kamishichiken), convieniently positioned directly infront of her. At the end of the show, she smiled down at me, tossing one of her signed handkerchieves into my lap.

When I first discovered Ichimame's blog, I was so excited I wanted to post a link to it here. Being written completely in the Kyoto dialect of Japanese, I figured very few people would be able to read it and so decided against it. Thanks to the incredible number of visitors her site has been recieving from all around the world, she has begun a professionally translated English version of the blog, although it seems to be slow going. I wish I could volunteer to do it for her! I'd have that smack updated post haste! Until they get caught up, I'll post my own translation of the most recent entries here:

Starting tomorrow! Must sleep...

Friday, October 20, 2006

Kyoto: Where My Heart Belongs

Almost Famous: Kotoha, A young, high rank maiko named Kotoha makes her to the big party at the Ichiriki teahouse after the main procession of Yamahoko Junko last July.

I'm headed to Kyoto for Jidai Matsuri: The Festival of Ages. I haven't been to Kyoto since July(way too long) but here are some of the photos I took during the summer and never got around to sharing. Enjoy!

A young, first year maiko on her way to an appointment during Gion Matsuri. Geiko still use traditional, oiled paper umbrella in the rain and snow. This was my first time actually seeing a maiko or geiko use one. Breath-taking. This is also the first image taken with my new camera (^-^)/ I'm still learning how to use it. Non-stop pouring rain + fast moving maiko = a great learning experience! The blur helps conveys the hustle and bustle of the crowded street, the young maiko rushing through the crowd to her appointment, and the dreary, dripping rain. It looks ethereal, like a scene from a dream, which is exactly the way I felt when I shot it.

Eyes Wide Closed: Gion. A geiko making her daily communte through the streets of Gion. Geiko wear wigs called katsura, with almost no ornamentation (compared to maiko, who style their own hair, which is adorned with many kanzashi, or flowered ornaments). Of course she blinked the exact moment I pressed the shutter, but what a perfect face.

A young geiko waiting outside the Ichiriki Teahouse in Gion with her client. Customers pay about $200 dollars an hour for the privledge of spending time with geiko (kyoto dialect for geisha), but having money is not the only requirement. Customers must have a relationship with an ochaya, a place where geiko entertain, in order to make an appointment, and being introduced to an ochaya is no simple task. The refined manners of Kyoto dictate that charging a customer at the end of the night is a no-no. With bills often running past 5,000$ a night, Ochaya must have a relationship based on trust, so that they can rest assured that the bills that they send to their customers once a month will be paid.

Two maiko make their way through the busy streets of Gion, sheltered from the sweltering summer sun by their umbrellas. Daytime casual: No white makeup, no heavy silk kimono. Just cotton yukata and lip gloss (^-^). I've never seen a maiko with a western umbrella before (right). Interesting. Also love the way the two older women watched them pass with awe, reverence and pride.

It is a Japanese custom for women to cover their mouths when smiling,laughing, and even sometimes, speaking. This young maiko was laughing as she talked with her friend, which is as she talked with her friend, which is why her hand is raised just so.

An older "sister", an accomplished and high ranking geiko, accompanying a few younger maiko, or apprentice geisha, to a tea ceremony held at the famous Ichiriki Teahouse. The way the older women on the right hold themselves, and the sensual way they touch themselves, even in such a casual way....

Wednesday, August 16, 2006

Cambodia: Here I Come!

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A beautiful Miko, or shrine maiden, wearing a hanagasa (a hat decorated with fake flowers) during Gion Matsuri.

I'm on my way to Cambodia and I won't be back until the 31st... Just in time for the never-ending Sports Festival practice, also known around here as the second term of the Japanese junior high school year. Unfortunately, I'm going to miss some prime matsuri time (festival season), but at least I made it to Gion Matsuri this year, even if it did rain everyday! Here's a few more images from the archives...

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Actually, the rain was a good thing. Yay for Japanese umbrellas!

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This little White Herron Dancer was interviewed after performing at Yasaka Shrine, but she wasn't the only one. A Gaijin's (foreigner's ) impressions of Gion Matsuri, tonight at 5! Thats what makes the news in a country with a comparatively low crime rate (^_<)

Thursday, August 3, 2006

The Flower Procession: Gion Matsuri

Maiko from Miyagawa-cho being pulled through Kyoto by young men from their neighborhood.
I'm sure you're all sick of seeing pictures from Gion Matsuri, but I just can't help myself! I'll try to write more later...Until then just enjoy the view from here (^_<)

Young women carrying their hanagasa, straw hats covered with fake paper flowers, seek shelter beneath their umbrellas.

Kanazuru, a maiko from Miyagawa-cho.

A young White Herron Dancer giggling as she ran for cover from the relentless rain.

A maiko from Gion.

A shrine maiden of Yasaka Jinja tries to keep her hanagasa in place.

Saturday, July 29, 2006

Yoiyama Kyomai : Gion Matsuri

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Geiko from Gion glide gracefully across the stage with their shamisens, as the long trains of their kimonos flutter behind them.

The Geiko took their place on the side of the stage, sitting seiza style, on their knees, and played as 3 maiko danced in the traditional Kyoto style. The maiko in the purple Kimono is Suzuha, who if I am not mistaken, recently appeared on the cover of the Japanese Playboy magazine! She is renowned for her classic beauty among many of Gion's customers.

Kotoha, a high ranking maiko (in green) and superb dancer, performed the lead role in the short performance. The young maiko behind her is only in her first year. Her upper lip is not yet painted, and her collar is still predominantly red.

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The extravagance of the flowing layers of colorful silk kimono, the breath-taking contrast of the porcelian-white makeup and delicately painted red lips, and the grace and dignity of the dance set to the haunting music of the shamisen create a scene of ethereal beauty beyond description.

As their dance ends, the maiko bow low to their audience. The maiko wear a very special hairstyle during the month of July specifically for Gion Matsuri.

Saturday, July 22, 2006

Gion Matsuri: Yamahoko Junko 2006


A young man, dressed in his area`s yukata, seeking shelter from the relentless rain that threatened to dampen the festive atmosphere of Gion Matsuri`s most anticipated event: the procession of the gigantic yama and hoko floats. The umbrellaless men behind him wait patiently for their cue to continue pulling their float through the streets. The heavy rain kept spectators to a minimum this year, with only 130,000, almost half last year's record-high of 240,000 people.

Is it still raining? You better your yukata it is!

Maiko make their ways through the soggy streets of Gion beneath their beautiful oiled-paper umbrellas.

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Gion Matsuri: Yoiyama 2006

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Yuko and I in front of one of the smaller festival floats, haku raku ten yama (White Paradise Mountain) at Gion Matsuri's Yoiyama (the night before the main procession, Yamahoko Junko). Yuko has played a major part in my adventures in Japan since my first day at Kansai Gaidai, when she and a bunch of friends waited for me outside after class and very politely asked if they could be my friend (^-^)/ Look at her! How could I say no? Kawaii! (^-<) *wink*
An elementary student performing the sacred Shirasagi Mai, the White Herron Dance, infront of Yasaka Jinja (Shrine) on Shijo dori (Avenue).

A high ranking maiko taking time out of her busy schedule to teach a younger maiko how to count.

Taiko: It's an art.

Zettai Shounen! A group of young boys donning their neighborhood yukata making music in the streets.

Suzuha, one of Gion's most beautiful and popular maiko, enjoying Yoiyama with a few friends.Say Peesu! (^-^)v

More Coming Soon!

Friday, July 14, 2006

Gion Matsuri, Here I Come!

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One of the many floats that Gion Matsuri is famous for, softly lit by paper lanters during Yoiyama.

I'm on my way to Kyoto's Gion Matsuri, on of Japan's biggest festivals. Expect me to be MIA until Monday (^o^)< Washoi! If you've never heard of this ancient, month long party in Japan's traditional culture capital, check these out!

Gion Matsuri:Yoiyama
Gion Matsuri: Yamahoko Junko

Don't worry! I haven't quite finished expounding the finer points of anime, as exhibited by BLEACH. All previously scheduled programming will resume with when I return! Have a great Ocean Day Weekend, everyone (^-^)v. Let us join Japan in expressing " our gratitude for the favor of the sea," and the Happy Monday System, too!

Monday, September 12, 2005

Modern Maiko

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A maiko checks in with her Okiya on her ketai, or mobile phone, as she strolls Shijo-dori with her Yakuza-looking patron during Gion Matsuri's Yoiyama. A few geiko followed behind. (The Yakuza is like the Japanese mafia).

Sunday, September 4, 2005

The Girls of Gion

A crew of Geiko and Maiko gathered outside the famous noren of the Ichirikiya to cheer the men on as they carried portable shrines down the Hanamikoji (Gion Matsuri).

Tuesday, July 26, 2005

Gion Matsuri Maiko: Makiko

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This is young Makiko, a maiko from Gion, on her way to watch the Procession of Dieties with her patron, the mop of grey hair hidden behind her glossy black lobes. The swarms of people gather along Shijo-dori parted like the Red Sea as gracefully glided towards the shrine. This is Makiko's first or second Gion matsuri as a Maiko! Her upper lip is still covered in the white makeup that overs the rest of her face, and her collar is still predominantly red. As she advances in skill and experience, she will be able to paint her upper lip in deep crimson, while her collar will gradually become less ornate, until she becomes a Geiko.

Gion Matsuri: Procession of Dieties

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Ususally the only shot of Yasaka Shrine one can get is with a few ugly buses, taxis and cars streaking thru the foreground, but with Shijo-dori closed to traffic for the procession, the street is filled with happi-clad mikoshi carriers and lined with excited onlookers. Here, three mikoshi, or portable shrines, rest before Yasaka Jinja (shrine) before being carried by the men in white throughout the streets of Gion.

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There is something strikingly Biblical about these mikoshi...I remember the first time I saw one at the Kurama Himatsuri during my Gaidai days, I immediately thought of the Ark of the Covenant. I am completely aware that there is a very descriptive description (redundant much?) of the Ark in the Bible, and that is it very different from what you see before you here, but the thread that joins all of mankind and its history together is, for me, blatantly aparant in these ancient traditions. You can't tell me that the ornamentation on the roof of the mikoshi doesn't look like a menorah!

Unlike the festival hoko floats, Mikoshi are not pulled, but carried on the shoulders of many men. Not only are they carried through the streets of the city for hours, they are thrown into the air and jostled about to excite the crowd. After bouncing the Mikoshi down Shijo a bit, these men made a turn onto the Hanamikoji, "Wasshoi"-ing their way past the Ichirikiya, the most famous Ochaya ( 'teahouse', where Geisha and maiko entertain) in the history of Japan...

Saturday, July 23, 2005

Gion Matsuri : Yoiyama Kyomai 

祇園祭り:よい山の京舞

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Mihoko (left), recently graduated from senior ranking maiko to full-fledge Geiko, performs Kyomai for the Yoiyama festivities with the maiko Ichimiyo. Their uchiwa, (Japanese fans) are decorated with their name, and the districts of Gion that they represent. When Geiko or maiko entertain during Gion Matsuri, they give their patrons one of these fans as a keepsake.

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Last time I saw Mihoko, she was dancing as an apprentice in the Miyako Odori. She looks so much more refined and elegant as a Geiko!

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Kyomai, or Kyoto Style Dance, developed in western Japan under the influence of Noh theatre. Unlike other odori, or kabuki styled dances developed in Edo, Kyomai is performed in Washitsu, Japanese style tatami mat rooms, where its subtle movements, the embodiment of the elegance and sophistication of the imperial court, can be viewed at close range .

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Kyomai is not meant to be performed on stage, but in the intimacy of Japanese rooms .

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Gion's entertainers practice the Inoue school of Kyomai. This style of dance is very different from that performed in Kyoto's other entertainment districts

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The Inoue school is characterized by minimal motions based on the masked drama of Noh and the puppetry of Bunraku.

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Even in this picture, if you compare the gesture of the hands between the Mihoko (Geisha) and Ichimiyo (maiko), the difference in mastery of these simple movements is clear.

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Geiko present themselves in a much more subdued fashion because they do not need the bright colors and flashy ornamentation to compensate for their lack of skill.

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Kyomai symbolizes the gracefulness and lifestyle of the imperial family.

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This is the fruit of my Japanese language labour...I was able to read the kanji foretelling the appearance of Geiko and Maiko performing Kyomai, as well as the names written on their uchiwa! Obsessed as I am, this gave me a great sense of accomplishment and furthur motivated me to press on! Who knows what gems of information are hidden in the kanji that clutter this country (besides the people that can read them)? Let's fighting ganbaro!

Stay tuned...more Matsuri Maiko pix to come...

Check out Justin Klien's Gion Matsuri Video to get a better idea of what this festival is all about!