Pontocho Maiko : Spring 2008

Kyoto Rewind : April 6, 2008


Ichiemi, now a high ranking maiko in the Pontocho district, greets the mistress of a teahouse during a small cherry blossom festival along the Takase Canal.


Ichiemi looks every bit the stylish, sophisticated young woman in this stunning lavender kimono ensemble. Even her adorably child-like cheeks have thinned out.


Ichiharu


The long, fluttering strands cherry blossoms hanging from Shinaju's hanakanzashi, or flowered hair ornament, testify to her low rank and inexperience as a maiko, appealing instead to her youth and child-like charm. Compare it with Ichiharu's above, who is of a slightly higher rank.

Hisano, now a geiko, and Ichiemi walk beneath the lacey veil of cherry blossoms along the Takase canal as sunlight falls in playful patterns along the pavement.

As if Ichiemi's lavendar kimono wasn't enough. Coupled with this remarkable pastel obi, colored with the sweet, pastel pallet of spring, this ensemble quickly became my favorite this season.

The 59th Kyo Odori 2008

The maiko Satonami performs in the opening scene with the geiko Chiyoe and Kanachisa.

With the passing of a winter that was more severe than most, the now-greening mountains and perfumed winds seem particularly glorious. In this refreshing season graced by gentle spring sunlight, we are once again proud to present our annual Kyo Odori.

We would like to express our gratitude to all of you who found time in your busy schedules to attend today's performance, which begins with a song-accompanied dance performed by our charming geiko and maiko in a traditional Miyagawa-cho zashiki room. Then performance then goes on to portray in a poetic manner each of the four seasons in Kyoto, with the beauty of the scenes to be found on mountains and in plains depicted through evocative dance.

Much assiduous practice and rehersal has gone into this year's event. After having viewed the fruits of our labor, any comments that you might have on our performance would be greatly appreciated...

I hereby express, on behalf of everyone at the Miyagawa-cho Kabukai, the sincere hope that you enjoy the wonderful spectacle that is the 59th Kyo Odori.

(Excerpt from the Kyo Odori Program)

From left to right, maiko Kimiha, Satonami, and Miyoharu.


The maiko Satonami.


The maiko Tanewaka performs "A Brilliant Brocade of Chrysanthemums".


Kimiharu, little sister to one of Kyoto's most popular and beautiful maiko, Kimika.


Kikutsuru performs in Kyo Odori for the first time as a geiko after turning her collar in June of 2007.


In a scene from the Tale of Genji, the geiko Fumimari dances in Heian period robes as Ukifune.


The celebrated dancer Fumicho performs her solo, a constant in the Kyo Odori program.


The geiko Chizuru as an Edo period courtesean in "The Tale of Princess Takiyasha".

Maiko take center stage in a brilliant display of color, beauty, and grace during the Miyagawa-cho Ondo Song and Dance.

Shirakawa Hanami: Kotoha and Takahiro

Kyoto Rewind: April 2, 2008


Kotoha, a senior maiko of Gion Kobu, smiles beneath the cherry blossoms lining the Shirakawa stream.

No cultural tour of Kyoto would be complete without a proper maiko sighting, so half-way through our hanami party in Maruyama Park I led my friends down to Gion's Shirakawa district. Shirakawa-Minami-Dori is one of the very few areas of Kyoto where you can really imagine what the old capital must have been like before the twentieth century onslaught of 'modernization'. Lined on one side by magnificent cherry trees and whimsical willows on the other, the carefully paved lane follows the Shirakawa stream through the traditional teahouse district. Across the shallow waters of the Shirakawa, teahouses and restaurants hide behind bamboo blinds, peak through shoji screens, or gaze out through wide glass windows.

Kotoha laughs with Takahiro as she smooths her carefully styled coiffure.

With this timeless, quintessentially Kyoto backdrop, the city's tourism association had invited two maiko (or apprentice geiko), to make a come out and enjoy the cherry blossoms, giving the many tourists that flock to Kyoto in the spring the perfect photo op. Imagine my excitement when the maiko were two of my all-time favorites: Takahiro and Kotoha. \(^o^)/


Takahiro takes a rest beneath the cherry blossoms.

My enchantment with Kotoha set off a bit of a debate between my friends and I. I couldn'd help but comment on how stunningly beautiful I thought she was, but they were quick to disagree. To them, Kotoha seemed 'cold'. They were much more drawn to Takahiro's sweet expression and dimpled smile. Only Kachi Sensei, my friend and former colleague, and her 11 year old son agreed with me.

Takahiro has a certain child-like charm, with warm, friendly features and an adorable dimpled grin. With her long, slender neck and graceful limbs, she is an excellent dancer, and to be honest, I couldn't take my eyes off of her during Miyako Odori.

Kotoha, on the other hand, would never be described as child-like. Her features are striking. While Takahiro has "the (Japanese) girl next door" appeal, Kotoha is exotic. Even amongst other geisha, she stands out. Always perfectly poised, she looks noble, dignified, and refined. Her fey expression makes it seem as if she is above the concerns and cares of the ordinary, lost instead in the infinite beauty of the 'flower and willow world'.

As different as they are, the truth is that Takahiro and Kotoha are my favorite of all the Gion Kobu maiko. It's their differences that make them stand out, giving them a unique appeal. They are both beautiful, talented young women, and I look forward to seeing them turn their collar and blossom as full-fledge geiko. Ganbatte, girls! I'm cheering for you!

Notice Kotoha's feet. Perfect.


Takahiro adjust Kotoho's dangling darari obi.

Kotoha stands near the memorial to the poet Yoshii Isamu. Engraved on the rock is one of his most famous verses:

"No matter what they say,
I love Gion.
Even in my sleep
The sound of water
Flows beneath my pillow."

Sasuga Gion: さすが祇園！

Kyoto Rewind: April 1, 2008


Mamemchika strolls past the wooden facades of the machiya (traditional wooden townhouses) that line Gion's well-preserved lanes. It's always so exciting to see her again! She's become such a beautiful geiko. I know it's silly, but I can't help but feel a sort of affection for the girls I've seen blossom from maiko to geiko over the past four years, especially the ones I've had the pleasure of meeting.

After attending the opening day performance of Miyako Odori, we couldn't help but stumble over maiko and geiko on the way to their evening engagements as we strolled through Gion, no doubt en route to Starbucks. Sasuga Gion! (Just what you would expect from Gion).


The young maiko Momiju looked pretty in pink as she fluttered through Pontocho.


She's no maiko, but she looked beautiful in her long-sleeved furisode kimono! Kawaii!


Where there are maiko, their are photographers. (Mameteru)

Miyako Odori Kimono and The Art of Gion

Kyoto Rewind: April 1st, 2008


'Uniform' kimono worn by geiko and maiko in the opening prelude, autumn scene, and finale of Gion Kobu's annual spring dance: Miyako Odori.

Before the maiko and geiko of Gion Kobu grace the stage to perform Miyako Odori, the Dance of the Old Capital, overly-anxious guests like me try to curb their enthusiasm by browsing the exhibit of artwork done by the maiko and geiko themselves, including paintings, calligraphy, and flower arrangements. A few of the famous "uniform" kimono the dance is famous for are also on display, highlighting different designs and themes used over the years.

Oil painting of two geiko wearing the Miyako Odori 'uniform' kimono and hanakanzashi (flowered hair ornaments) by the geiko Suzuko.


Kimono design used in the fifth year of Heisei, 1993.


My personal favorite, worn in the fifty-third year of Showa, 1978.


This design must have been the height of kimono chic in Showa's fifty-nineth year, 1984.


I loved this simple silhouette which captures the mystique, innocent playfulness and youthful beauty of a maiko. I wish I knew who painted it!


Another lovely portrait, artist unknown.

We Met Takahina!

Kyoto Rewind: March 29th, 2008

Takahina, Gion's youngest maiko (as of March 29th, 2008) makes her entrance.

Before Takahina entered the traditional, tatami mat room, we took our seat at low, black laquered tables set in a U formation along three walls. The Okami-san, proprietess and manager of the okiya where Takahina lives, called Takahina to join us. Even before she made her entrance, we could hear the hushed rustling of silk and a soft, tinkling chime, perhaps from the dangling metal strips of her hair ornament.

When she finally appeared, emerging from a long dark corridor, everyone gasped, our breath stolen by the sheer spectacle of it all: Her breathtakingly beautiful kimono, the glittering gold thread of her obi, the stark white veil of her makeup beneath a halo of laquered black hair crowned with colorful slik flowers and shimmering silver tassles. Even apart from the exotic extravagance of her regalia, her sweet, subtle grin, delicate features and slender neck, all highlighted by her hair, makeup and dress, made quite a pleasant impression. Introducing herself in a charmingly child-like, high pitched voice, she bowed low, on her knees with her head almost to the ground, asking us for our favor. Yoroshuu otanomooshimasu!

Showing off the elaborate yuzen design of her luxurious, long-sleeved silk kimono, subtly shaded in the sweet pallet of early spring. Yuzen is a textile process that combines a mixture of freehand paste resist and painting, which may also include stencil and shibori work. The decorative flexibility possible with this combination of techniques is unsurpassed. Designs are initially outlined in paste resist, and dyes are then applied to give subtle gradations of tone. Both delicacy and lavishness are characteristic of yuzen, as are traditional themes and decorative designs. Embroidery and gold leaf are sometimes elements of yuzen composition.


Her hair, drawn up in the fashion of young maiko, known as the wareshinobu, compliments her long, slender neck, painted in white save for a fork of bare skin leading down to the risque plunge of her kimono collar.


Ningyou-ke? Is she a doll? (^-^) Have I ever told the story of the child seeing a maiko for the first time as she walked down Shijo with her mother? "Mama, look! Is that a doll?" She squealed excitedly. "That's a maiko-san", her mother giggled. "She does look like a doll, doesn't she. Isin't she cute?"

Takahina was accompanied by her Okami-san, who quickly noticed my brother and I. "Well, well, Takahina-san, we have some foreign guests who were kind enough to come and see us. Now's your chance to practice your English. Do you remember anything?"

"Umm..." She thought for a moment.With and irresistible shyness, she slowly formed the words, carefully pronouncing each sound. "Wheea aa you from?" she asked, smiling nervously. As she raised the intonation at the end of the question, a point that is often stressed in junior high school English classes, she tilted her head to one side, the fluttering strands of her hana-kanzashi (flowered hair ornament) resting on her cheek.

Keeping everyone entertained, making us all feel special!

Of course Takahina danced for us, but I was too caught up in the experience of it all to worry about taking pictures. Sorry!

Takahina, my brother and I.

My First Misedashi or The Death of My Camera Lens

Today Miyagawa-cho welcomed Kyoto's two newest maiko into their ranks, bringing Kyoto's maiko count to a grand total of 102, the highest in over 40 years!

I wasn't quite sure my poor camera lens was up to the task, after the beating it's taken lately. The final straw was a fatal fall after I fell victim to a sneek-up tickle-and-run attack by a little girl in Miyagawa-cho. She caught me off my gaurd, holding my camera as I almost never do: by the strap, lens dangling down to ground.

Anyone that knows me knows I am extremely ticklish. My poor lens never stood a chance. The instant that little gucha-gucha girl got her fingers on me it was out of my hands, quite literally.

By all appearances it survived unscathed, and for the rest of the day it fought like a trooper. By the next day it stubbournly refused to zoom out. Since then I've been stuck between 50 and 105mm (way up from the usual 24-105 range). I still had some wiggle room, so I I've been trying to make the best of it.

The Misedashi: My Camera Lens' Last Stand

Then just before the misedashi, I realized it was stuck at 105mm. As if it wasn't bad enough that it was pouring rain. I kept my cool, thinking "at least I can still take pictures, right? Yay! My first misedashi!"

Take pictures I did! Trust me for that (^_<) My little lens hung in there until the very last. When it was over I headed to the Sanjo Starbucks in Pontocho to recharge. The second I sat down my lens just came undone. Long story short, it looks like I'll be headed to the nearest Canon service station tomorrow if I plan on taking any more pictures this trip! It wouldn't be that bad, but I spoke to a semi-pro photographer today who said it will probably be a few days and a few hundred dollars. And by few, I mean five. Five hundred dollars! Nande yanen!

So anyone who wants to chip in to help save my camera lens, Mboogiedown is accepting donations at PayPal (^_<)

Maiko + Sakura = (^_^)

Someone looks happy! Clouds of cherry blossoms and a cute young maiko named Ichiharu make for one memorable hanami pre-game festivity... More on that later (^_<)/

Kyo Odori: Opening Day Update 2008

CORRECTION: The maiko Satonami performs in the opening scene with the geiko Chiyoe and Kanachisa. Thank you to everyone who pointed out this mistake!

The past few days have been incredible: full of maiko, geiko, sunshine and cherry blossoms in full bloom. We even stumbled upon a procession of Oiran! Everywhere I look, I see a haiku. If only I had the words to share them with you.

Well, I'm no Basho, but I do have a camera (^_<) There is absolutely nothing like Kyoto in the spring. It's like a dream! I can't wait to show and tell you all about it!

If anyone would a program from any or all of the spring dances, please contact me or leave a comment! Peter MacIntosh has uploaded a few images from this year's Miyako Odori program to his blog! Check it out!

More updates coming soon...

Miyako Odori : Opening Day Update!

The geiko Mari peforming the role of temae,preparing the tea slowly, mindfully, with utmost grace.

The good news is that Miyako Odori began today, and that I was there to see it! The bad news is that spectators are no longer permitted to photograph the performance without a special, expensive license. (ioi)

At least we can still take a few pictures during the tea ceremony (^_<)

As Mari finishes preparing a cup of tea, Katsuyuki brings another.


The maiko Katsuyuki in the role of ohikae.

Back In Kyoto!

Takahiro! Hisashiburi! It's been a long time.

Peace from lantern-lit Miyagawa-cho! (*^_^*)v

Just checking in to let everyone know that after a few excellent days in Ena, we've finally arrived in Kyoto! Despite what these images might imply, we did not spend our first evening here chasing geisha, but we couldn't help running into them everywhere we went! The cherry blossoms are blooming, and hanami season, Gion's busiest, is in full swing.

Ichiwaka, one of the 13 new maiko that have made their debut so far this spring.


Takahiro, could you be any cuter?


Mamechiho
Konomi: Kawaii!